After purchasing the template for the 11' SUP from Chad I started working on the project last weekend. Everything has been going well. I have the spine spliced together then attached all the ribs. I made a rocker table as well as glued up and sanded down the bottom skin. I had quit a bit of curve in my spine so I used Andys idea and glued some tabs down to the bottom skin to straighten it out. Tonight I was able to get off of work and put some time into the build. I went to dry fit the spine to the bottom deck and set it to sit for a day or so to allow a natural gravity bend. The issue I have is that something isnt lining up correctly. The spine touches the skin but I have about a 1/4" gap between each rib and the bottom skin. Has anyone else had this issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? Sorry for the wordy message and I will post more pictures after I resize all of them.
For the spine splice I went with a standard but joint that is commonly used for long beams in building construction. Just made an even cut at the 7' mark butted the two pieces together and sandwiched between two 1/2" pieces of plywood. The splice is rock solid I dont think it will cause any issues.
Bottom skin being glued together. I am using 12' red cedar planks I picked up from Lowes. The board measurements are 1"x6" I borrowed a neighbors band saw to rip them in half then planed down to a little more than 1/4" to allow for final sanding and shaping without going to thin.
And this where it stands as of now with the spine touching the skin but a 1/4" gap under all the ribs on both sides. Im ready to get back to working on the board this weekend and come up with a fix for the problem.
Post by vilanobeachsurf on Aug 3, 2012 5:53:41 GMT -5
Thanks for the photo's, looks like you've made a lot of progress.
With regard to the 1/4" gap, is the rib flush with the stringer (spine) at the stringer? Obviously if it isn't flush there, then that is the problem, but I can't tell.
I haven't built an SUP yet, but on my 9'1" I had to shim up the rocker table ribs to get the bottom to meet up with the stringer, but I didn't have the problem of the stringer meeting the bottom deck and the ribs not. If I remember right, the ribs are flat on the bottom.
Now the top deck was different, due to the transverse curve of the deck I had to get the top of the deck wood wet to get the curvature right and then quickly shimmed and clamped the top rocker table ribs down. Oops, I did this after putting glue on the ribs and tabs.
Hope this helps, bring on more photo's and maybe we can figure this out!
Thankyou Vilano, I set a personal build goal of 60-80hrs max as of now I have 29 working hrs in it.
Unfortunately the ribs are not flush with the stringer. That is the first thing that i noticed yesterday during the dry fit. Three things could have caused this one I cut the ribs too small or the spine too big or my plotter didnt print to scale (my company owns a 44"plotter). When I glued the ribs to the spine i trued the top of the ribs with top of the spine and assumed that would make the bottom of rib true to spine. DO NOT ASSUME!
After thinking about this all last night my thought is that I can sand down the stringer until it is flush with all the ribs. This would take some of the thickness out of the board but I do not think it would be a problem, I am only talking about a 1/4" at most. My goal is to avoid having to pry each rib off the spine and then cut out new ribs and re-glue. Any other ideas are much appreciated.
Post by claytonplunkett on Aug 3, 2012 8:09:03 GMT -5
Mine cut out the same where the spine is about 3/16 to 1/4 bigger at some ribs but not all. I flushed the top and sanded and planed the center spline to match the ribs. I looked close to make sure the line of the spine was fair. That is smooth with no bumps up and down just a smooth flowing line nose to tail.
That hopefully will work for me and maybe you too.
Did you print your template out on a plotter? I am trying to figure out how to prevent this from happening on my next build (my girlfriend is already asking when im going to start working on her board)
Post by vilanobeachsurf on Aug 3, 2012 8:36:29 GMT -5
You might try a planer to speed things up on getting the stringer down to size. When I overcut some ribs (thought I needed more of a spoon in the nose, which of course was the wrong thing to do...just one of dozens of mistakes) I would mark up the limits and make small cuts down to the line and then sand until the cuts dissappeared.
Post by claytonplunkett on Aug 3, 2012 10:14:51 GMT -5
I sent my PDF file to the printer and for just a few bucks they printed the file on a continues sheet. I thought the error must have come from my cutting with a jigsaw.
But it is no big deal along as the bottom is fair and smooth and we don't have some ribs narrow creating a hollow area in the bottom. I checked that when I stacked the ribs all together I look for any rib that doesn't look right, like the difference between it and the others is off. All looked good to me and I moved ahead with the build.
Simple fix....cut some strips 1/2' wide and a 1/4" thick and fit between the skin ( if already attached ) ... will give you more glue area and make the board stronger..... a good thing if it is spaced on the usuall 8" layout...
I had some ribs that were taller than the rest by 1/8"- 3/16".....used a japanese pull saw and then sanded to the line. This could be done on the spar, but the other way is easier..the japanese pull saw is good for shaving off any glue clumps....flex it under the rib and hold flat to surface..it is very flexable ... ; )
Plus by not cutting it down, you will retain volume , which I think is good with a SUP ...of course I use in flat and intercoastal water.... which on a windy day is diffinately not flat...LOL