|
|
Post by Tom on May 15, 2012 12:32:17 GMT -5
Hi,
I am new at all this, so I apologize if there are dumb questions. I have some experience wood working and thought building a SUP would be a fun summer project. I have my plans in hand and think the wood section looks fairly straight forward but I am completely unfamiliar with glassing and thought I should figure it out before investing my time and money in the project.
1. Reading through the links and literature it sounds like the finished board will require one coat of cloth and resin/epoxy?
2. Is applying this myself a reasonable plan for a newbie or am I likely to screw up all my hard work?
3. How much should I expect it to cost to have a professional apply it for me and any ideas on where to locate someone capable. I live in Minnesota so there are not a whole lot of surf shops around?
Thanks for any help and advice
|
|
|
|
Post by ericden on May 15, 2012 14:45:49 GMT -5
I paid to have my first two boards done for $300-$350
I plan to do the third board myself. I will follow suggestion to run thru an entire practice cycle on a scrap piece of wood. Suggest you do a prcatice run prior to glassig.
|
|
|
|
Post by TimelessSurf on May 15, 2012 19:34:46 GMT -5
It's not too hard to do if you have a ventilated indoor setup, the problems come from temp changes, humidity, and between coat setup. Follow the directions on the resin ( so it adheres proper and so you don't get the "blush" from epoxy), start early in the day as the temp is rising, don't do it in the sun (kicks too fast), don't do it after 6 (might get cold and not kick), don't sand until you get about 3 coats of resin over the lam coat (you may sand into the fabric so the weave shows), be careful to mix the catalyst according to temperature. These are the usual causes of blemishes.
DONT BE IN A HURRY, test like Eric says!
First, brush a very thin coat of resin on the wood. This will seal it so that the next coat doesn't soak in too much and cause dry spots in the fabric and add extra weight from excessive resin.
Then usually folks use one layer of 4oz or 6 oz Ecloth (woven fiberglass fabric)
Then 2-3 coats of just resin to fill the weave. (do not sand in between)
Then sand it out and clear coat it with enamel, spar varnish, or epoxy....
FUN!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Tom on May 22, 2012 10:34:02 GMT -5
Thanks, exactly the info I was looking for - it sounds doable.
|
|
|
|
Post by ericden on May 24, 2012 11:08:37 GMT -5
Hi Chad,
How do you handle your laps along the rails? I read on Tree to Sea how Rich uses a zip seam and tape to form a drip edge.
Any tips?
E
|
|
|
|
Post by TimelessSurf on May 24, 2012 13:18:17 GMT -5
I used to do zip seems but I sometimes had issues leaving tape scrap behind accidentally. The resin turns opaque when you cut or sand so it's hard to see all the pieces.
I instead lap the rails (pretty messily I might add) and then throw 3 or more coats of resin on before sanding to give me lots of stock to sand away, then work out the seams. either way is good in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
Post by gallyhag on Jun 19, 2012 23:02:26 GMT -5
How much resin will be needed to cover the 11ft sup?
|
|
polson
Junior Member
Posts: 78
|
Post by polson on Jun 22, 2012 0:56:44 GMT -5
Great question. How much resin for an 11footsup?
|
|
|
|
Post by mpalace81 on Dec 16, 2012 9:10:18 GMT -5
I saw a bunch of guys putting the "hot coat"? Is this just another coat of resin or is it a special material?
|
|
|
|
Post by kevvisser on Mar 20, 2015 23:39:03 GMT -5
great questions I wish I knew the answers ? anyone know ?
|
|
