Post by juliangibraltar on Jul 25, 2014 0:11:02 GMT -5
Holy crap Tim, she already looks fabulous!! and you are most certainly going to overtake me!! Love the Wenge accent, I'd love to do an "Art Deco" style design on a board one day and this looks similar. More great insights on clamping tools for the next one. Looking forward to more pics.
Re the 2K clear coat I am looking to find some spray in a can and do it at home...economy is a bit tight...but on youtube it looks quite feasible. Tommy, I looked over ebay and unfortunately couldnt find anything in Spain...the sacrifice of living in a hot country is the lack of a lot of this sort of stuff - I have found some in a surf builders web site in southern France which should be good.
Tim your board looks amazing!!! Love the design/layout of the wood. I just got my frame finalized and glued. Wish I could spend more time on it but only had one day last week to work on it. Next step is a trip to the wood shop to pick out pieces for the decking. All of this has been extremely gratifying work. Keep up the pics and posts Tim. On vacation so when I get back I'll posts pics of my build
As mentioned before I want to have a good strong deck so I have decided to apply glass underneath the deck as well as on the outside. I will only glass the outside of the hull though.
After cleaning and sanding between the frames on the underside of the deck I laid out some 6oz cloth, applied the resin direct from the mixing cup (poured it) and then spread with a homemade spreader made out of an old milk container. After it was fully wetted and transparent I used the same spreader at a slightly higher angle to remove all the excess resin to leave a matt finish. I learnt when building my kayak that this is the most important part when applying the lam coat. If you don’t squeeze out the excess resin then it will pool under the cloth which effectively means the cloth is not touching the wood. Luckily these pools are easy to spot as they are shiny. If left you will (a) have a weak bond and (b) likely to sand through to the cloth during the final stages and then have to patch them. Of course you have to do all of this before the resin starts to gel. As the panels between frames are a bit fiddly I only glassed 4 at a time which was about all I could safely manage before the resin started to gel. The top and bottom of the board will be a bit easier (no frames to restrict you) just a lot more surface area.
If you haven’t laid fibreglass cloth before then I suggest a look at this video several times and especially note how, during the last couple of minutes or so, Nick gets rid of the excess resin and uses a cup with a slot cut in it to wipe off the old resin from the spreader each time he makes a pass. There is a fair bit of work to do before the resin gels and I always enlist the help of she who must be obeyed to mix 3 or 4 batches of resin for me, one more or less straight after the other, while I crack on with the spreading. It’s not difficult but you only get one shot and time is the limiting factor.
Well time to start stripping again, this time the hull.
I got a bit bored waiting for the glass to dry so I downloaded some fin designs from the site Julian posted some time ago, chose one and made my first fin using some left over strips from the deck build. I used some resin to glue a piece of oak for the bottom which fits into the fin slot and then drilled a 4mm hole ready for the fin bolt. I have ordered some 4mm stainless steel marine grade round bar from fleabay (£3) which I will use for the locator pin in the fin and also for my leash plug which I intend to make myself as well. Next time I’m glassing I will add 2 layers of 6oz cloth either side of the fin for strength.
Well that’s about it for now. A few days more stripping and then the rails – that should be interesting!!
Post by juliangibraltar on Aug 5, 2014 2:33:32 GMT -5
Tim, as I imagined, continuing with some lovely neat and precise building!! Love the fin....I might try one once I get the fin box (all due today or tomorrow!) and see how it all fits together. Although I'm desperate just to finish my first one I am actually quite keen to try a 2nd with all the learnings and craftsmanship from you guys. Keep the photos coming!
ps. Just to amuse.....my UV inhibitor is in the shop in Spain, so thats good...but they are on summer hours and only open from 9-3 (and not saturdays)....I'm also working summer hours so in my office from 8-4.....so cant go and get the inhibitor!! The joys of living in the sun!
Wow I can’t believe it’s been over a month since my last post. Well things have moved on a touch. I have stripped the deck, closed in the sides with strips, stepping each one a little as I went along and then finally closing off the middle. It all went pretty well but took 11 strips each side. Five on the top and five on the bottom with the final one closing the gap.
The first couple of strips glued for the rails
The gap is getting smaller – note that I had to roughly shape each one before adding the next. I found this made it far easier to know where to position the next one.
The next picture is the gap fully closed, hmmm well it’s not actually because I forgot to take one, sorry!
After shaping the rails I cut the board to accept the nose block. If you look carefully you can see the stagger in the strips for the rails although the gap is really small both at the nose and the tail because the board is much thinner at these points. You can also see the final closing strip in this picture which has been roughly shaped prior to sanding.
The 2 smaller strips on the inboard of both top and bottom rails are the stringers I used to align the frames initially. I did not count these as rail strips.
There is just something about the swish of a plane taking of wafer thin shavings, don’t you think. Multi coloured too!
Will be glassing this next week providing I can get the temperature up in the workshop! Although the weather is quite warm for September in the UK I shall have to stoke up the wood burner for a while to get the required 70+ required for a good transparent lay up.
Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 10, 2014 0:19:36 GMT -5
I wondered where you'd gone Tim....beautiful work...can´t wait to see it glassed up. What were all the different types of wood you used in the end? A board like this needs a wooden paddle also !!! ALso, being a bit weight obsessed at the moment whats her weight before the glassing?
Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 15, 2014 23:53:37 GMT -5
Hi Tim......saw on another post you were nearly done with the glassing.....so......lets see some pics hombre!
Interesting way to do the rails, I know someone else mentioned them before but excellent to see how they really look -. do you think this uses less wood (less weight) than the triangle method?...did you find it easy to clamp these guys? Another question is I've noticed you and some others glass the inside of the top deck...is this purely for strength as I dont think you do it on the bottom of the board? And finally how much does the lady weigh??? I'm still in a quandary about starting the next one for she who must be obeyed or buy a far less impressive manufactured one!!
Will post glassing pics soon. The rails were easy to do and easy to clamp as they are only 20mm x 6mm (3/4 x 1/4 approx) but take a long time as you have to wait for glue to dry etc. As for the weight of the wood to make them well I guess it's around the same really.
Yes I glassed the underside of the deck for strength, I'm around the 220lb mark, I guess it might be a bit of belt and braces but I felt happier.
Next time!! I might try the triangle method but would then have to leave the top deck un-glassed. I would then only use straight grained cedar for the job and to search hard through the wood piles to find it I expect.
Well I forgot to weigh it before glassing but after it weighed 48lbs. That said, it is 11' 6" long and 33" wide by around 4 3/4 thick as I wanted a little more volume so that added a little extra weight. Quite how the other guys get them down to 30 - 35 lbs is beyond me. I reckon without the extra glass inside and with a standard size plan board I could manage 40lbs but hey ho. What are your board dimensions now its finished?
Only the vent plug to make and fit before I roll on the final coat of resin which has to be sanded again prior to finishing. Then there is the paddle of course but I've already laminated a 11 degree shaft so just the business end to complete and fit.
Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 19, 2014 0:36:25 GMT -5
Hi Tim, so, your is bigger and much lighter than mine!!!! Excellent stuff. Will certainly be looking to changing my wood to Paulownia from North of Spain when I go for the next one. My measurements are pretty much 11' x 31" x 3.3/4".....not 100% sure on depth as cant measure it very precisely but more or less. This is also where I lost a lot of volume for my near 250lbs!!
Paulownia, now that sounds nice. I wish I could have got my hands on some of that and I would have combined it with the Western Red Cedar oh well in my dreams! The volume thing is interesting though. I wonder what difference it will make apart from riding higher in the water. But hey that's what I want it for mainly flat water in the form of lakes and rivers and paddle surfing the odd small wave if I get lucky but the nearest thing to me would be the Severn Bore - hmmm now there's a thought. I might need a few months to get good enough for that though!!
Have you been getting lots of paddling in and got the nack of it? Any problems with the board yet, apart from carrying the thing around!