Looking excellent!!! You are making good progress too! My total weight with 2 coats of spar varnish is 65lbs. I'm going to add 4 more. A bit heavy. My fin may a bit large too. Turning is a little difficult. I may do some trimming on that at the end of the season. I can paddle hard in a straight line with little drift.
Post by juliangibraltar on May 26, 2014 11:26:43 GMT -5
Love the video 1974!!! Also good tip on the size of the fin...still considering this.
Here are some more pics from this weekend where I finally finished on the planking and got down to some planing and sanding.....I made the very basic but for the moment adequate shaper stand from a pallet i had lying around, will need a better version eventually.
Slight concern on the board is that in a number of places,l as per picture, I still have a lot of glue showing, obviously some very bad gluing on the last plank as the plank was straight but the edge of the rail i had already slightly shaped so the contact wasnt brilliant. I'm terrified of just planing away as I would be gutted if I went through to air!!! Any ideas on the best way to "cover" this sort of blemish? Should I just empty it out and fill with wood chips or sawdust and glue or just keep planing (of course as noone but me is on my board you cant tell how much wood is left to plane, so ignore stupid question), I'll just fill with glue and sawdust i think unless someone has an interesting suggestion.
On the rail shaping again approaching this quite nervously as I need to make sure i keep an eye on both sides, typically i will overdo one side and then the other etc until I've gone too far. Oh wqell, this is the fun part for me so Ill just take my time...
Post by juliangibraltar on May 27, 2014 9:08:56 GMT -5
On another note.....I have to say that my board weighs a bloody ton! I haven't actually weighed it yet but I was having a hell of a problem trying to shift it between the shaping stand and jig, laughing to myself at the thought of how uncool this was going to be on beach...until I hit the water haha! When I weigh it I will let you all know.
My wood is Radiata Pine, the deck is 6mm (just under 1/4") and the spar is 15mm (19/32"). Filled it with foam and my fin blocks are pine and a bit wider than should be but even without the glassing this is going to be a struggle.....definitely not a ladies board!!
Also just noticed as I went through some old forum notes that my board has ended up the same colour scheme as Simonz.....probably 'cos we used "white wood"....Simonz, if you still visit the forum, thanks for the subliminal influence!
Post by juliangibraltar on Jun 6, 2014 3:40:21 GMT -5
I've been going nuts with sanding and planing! I love planing but worried that I will just keep going until I go through the wood so I've stopped now and kept going with the sanding. My problem is that the planking wasn't very level to begin with so I'm spending loads of time sanding and sanding and sanding....even went down to 40 grit paper to clean up the lips! Just as I thought I was getting there I realise the one of my rails (see photo and towards the back its clearer) I have a "double" rail curve.....like two bumps!! So back to planing this weekend (hope I dont go through)!! Also fitted the tail and used a strip of mahogany which i had to try to get a nice effect...only issue I'm facing now is trying to plane, sand, shape the tail with a very hard wood next to a soft pine!!! Will keep going to try to even out the level!! Not sure what to do on the nose but I think I may not use Mahogany as that is a more visible part of the board!
Finally just a general shot of the board. I am looking at probably having to use Polyester Resin as I can get that locally in Gibraltar at a very good price. I figure I'd use it for this board and when I make the next one which will hopefully come out better then go for epoxy. My plan is to do the following: 1. Cheater coat (top and bottom) 2. Laminate (4oz or 6oz glass fibre) and coat of resin (top and bottom) 3. 1 or 2 coats of resin with final being the hot coat/gloss. (top and bottom) I dont think I really need 2 layers of glass on the top......comments if anyone disagrees?
Of course need to add the fin box and leash plug at some point.
I have to get this finished soon and on the water!!!!
I couldn't really see the double curve in the rail. So far it's looking good. I used only one layer of 6oz glass. I did get 2 small cracks while using it on the lake and cracked the fin. Of course I was being pulled behind a boat cutting wakes. My poor fin...
Post by juliangibraltar on Jun 6, 2014 9:51:27 GMT -5
Hi '74, heres a blown up of the "double" rail....a bit exaggerated but its there....maybe it could be a new design feature!!! I think like you, I might use the 6oz if I'm only going for one layer. Shame about the cracked fin, it looked the biz. I think I'm going for a fin box but I might make a wooden one like Blair did which fits into the fin box.....do this next winter!
I see the double edge. I had some of that too. I just kept planing, the rail build up is pretty darn thick so i decided to just keep going. I also installed wood blocks so I could use a fin box setup. I think I will fix my fin this time. If it breaks again I will get the router out and install a fin box. I also need to install my leash cup.
Post by raymond7204 on Jun 16, 2014 22:05:57 GMT -5
Great work so far.
I built a 9' longboard last year and put two layers of 6 oz cloth on top and one on the bottom. It added a significant amount of weight. It's pretty strong, but I'm not convinced that it needed that much.
For my next project (SUP), I'm planning on using one 6 oz layer on top and 4 oz on the bottom. The strips aren't so thin that they need the additional support. Also, there is less "popping up" stress on a SUP that I think you could get away with a "thinner" deck.
Post by juliangibraltar on Jun 17, 2014 5:05:24 GMT -5
Thanks Ray, I think you're right , 6oz on top and 4 oz on bottom should be more than enough at least for my uses which, as you say is mainly SUP, and some low level laid back wave surfing (and a lot of climbing on board!).
I am actually looking around the internet for people who might have done this without any cloth and just 3-4 or 5 layers of resin. I know the cloth makes it stronger but the board feels soooooo solid I wonder. I have found a couple of people who dont use cloth but they are different boards perhaps a different construction?
Been doing the nose piece this weekend and struggling as all my machines seems to be breaking down.....will post some more pics in the next couple of days.
Post by juliangibraltar on Jun 30, 2014 9:20:01 GMT -5
Well guys, the summer is sizzling here and the sea is calling and I am getting very impatient to finish my baby! I've progressed to final light sanding, yeah! I now need to fill in "lots" of gaps using 1974's method I think, of dropping in some sawdust, followed by super glue and more sawdust and then sanding..........then I can go for my cheater coat, YEAH!!!!
here are some pics of the last developments...the nose and tail. The nose is a rounded point (boring pine as didnt have anything else and wanted to move on) and the tail is a square tail (with a strip of mahogany which I will never do again - hard wood next to soft wood not good idea). This was not done specifically to plan but rather how it panned out (in other words a kind of controlled accident!). I have done a bit of research and in principal I dont believe there is anything wrong with these shapes, a sort of hybrid modern to classic longboard shape??? I would appreciate any input from anyone on whether these will work or will make my board ride like a potato! I just want her in the water and seriously I am not going to be doing any above knee high waves.
The slight stains in the pics are from a wet rag used to remove the sawdust. Havent weighed her but she is already mighty heavy (or stable)!!
I will send more pics once the resin starts getting laid on.
Post by juliangibraltar on Jul 2, 2014 12:06:09 GMT -5
OK guys, I've got a number (quite a lot) of very fine cracks on the joins of the strips which you can see in one image....the line next to it is a scraper to show how fine the crack is, about 1mm or less - too thin for a slice of timber also.
I've tried sawdust, then superglue then sawdust but I think the crack is too small to take the glue which has spread around the crack....as you can see in the other image it has "stained" the line and this image is after some heavy duty sanding with a 40 paper!
So getting a little irritated now and thinking of options.....
1. I can simply fill the cracks with sawdust and then lay the cheater coat over it and hope that keeps it in place?
2. I can squeeze in some pine/light wood filler which I know will perhaps show up a lot once the resin is on but the line is pretty thin and it might be ok? At this point I have accepted that the aesthetics of this board will be used as a learning experience for the next one so am keen to get it finished (even if I do this very tidy there is the bottom which is not so neat as the deck).
So....any insights, suggestions or simply moral support to just do it with the easier but less pretty option!!
maybe try taking some wood glue and fine sawdust and mixing it to make your own wood filler? with the right consistency it should fill the crack and harden at a close enough shade and be sandable. you could also sand it down to use a thin strip of pine to fill it.