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Post by turtlebo on Aug 16, 2011 21:52:45 GMT -5
I am cheap and want to build my first 9' board out of as much recycled material, so that I don't waste a lot of money of the learning process. I have several questions though. The lumber I am looking at recycling is about 6' in length by 3.5 in wide. If I construct the skins with multiple pieces in the lengths will it hold up and are there any suggestions on how to glue/clamp this? Or can I assemble the skins perpendicular will that hold? Suggestions on gluing/ clamping? My last thought was to assemble the pieces at angles in a sort of arrow feather pattern. I think that this would have a great look but I don't know about the strength or gluing process. Any suggestions or comment are appreciated, and you won't hurt my feeling if you tell me I'm wasting my time and just find longer wood.
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Post by Grant on Aug 17, 2011 7:30:03 GMT -5
I thought the same thing. I am just completing my first board from Chad, a 9'2" HP longboard..
Wow, where to start. Well...I just winged it and tried to make a board with cut pieces 24" back from the nose.. in the pink model. kind of...
I glued 3/4" pine triangles to the ribs on each side for extra support. It can be done and not too difficult... I used Seran Wrap instead of claps, this actually works good...Just double it over and stretch it out before you use it like a clamp.. I just tie tie off..
Make sure you plane the pieces the same thickness. I came kind of close and close isnt good enough. I was 1/8 " deeper on my stringer piece and 1/8" difference jumbled all over the board. I sanded and planed for 8 days...Ugly, it should have taken me one day. When you have a ton of pieces, making sure all the pieces the same depth is absolutely important...
Maybe glue (Gorilla Glue) up your pieces so you have say 3 to 4" wide sections, glue them, let them dry, then run them through the planer...Trust me, it will save you a lot of work...The one problem you will have is the bend... I glued up one piece at a time and they bent fairly easy with a little soaking in water. On second thought, if you have a bunch of smaller pieces you will need to bend each one individually and add them one at a time, otherwise they wont hold on the rocker bend.. I will add a few pictures for you to look at..
After making this board, Man am I not hot-dogging it again...I have a 10'2" HP from Chad (Timeless surf) that I am making and I am following instructions 100%. long boards, planed all glued together at once.. clamped... then after they dry, use the rocker board...Way easier, and less time...
BTW... I checked all over the net, and Chad was the only one who got back to me right away...I choose him for that reason. I email him 2 to 3 times a day and he walked me through this process... If it wasn't for him I could have never done this board... Invaluable. He is a great guy, you cant go wrong...
I am trying to add pictures, but without luck. I will try on another post
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Post by apauly1954 on Aug 17, 2011 14:25:07 GMT -5
Hi, I haven't actually made my skins yet as I'm still deciding what timber etc. leaning towards some African Red Mahogany that I have quite a lot of. But it is all 3'2" long so I intend to rip it all to 5" widths, then glue (with Gorilla glue) 3 pieces (matching the grain as best I can) end grain to end grain to create at least 4 pieces 9'6" long x 5" wide x 3/4" thick which I will then rip to get several pieces at 1/4" thick. All of which is something similar to what you are suggesting, I think. I'm a trade cert. carpenter/joiner & we do this sort of stuff all the time to create longer lengths of timber when needed from several short lengths. I'm sure Chad will agree that end grain glueing with Gorilla glue which is super strong won't be a problem & that those joints will be just as viable as any other glue joints you make during the build. And as you are going to glass the board eventually, it will be waterproof. Just my thoughts, others may have differing opinions. Paul
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Post by Grant on Aug 17, 2011 17:54:30 GMT -5
It sounds much smarter than the way I did it... I am new to carpentry, and its been a fun challenge... Please send a photos, I might do it that way also. I live in Cabo San Lucas and finding long pieces of wood is difficult..Everything except white pine is 6' or so...
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Post by turtlebo on Aug 17, 2011 19:48:05 GMT -5
Grant,
Thanks for the advice on planing the pieces in sections first. That seem to make a lot of sense. I'm gonna have to get a table planer aren't I?
Apauly,
can you give me more advice about end grain glueing? Why not rip the boards down to 1/4 before glueing? How do you hold ther boards together longways while the glue dries? Any other advice you can give would be helpful.
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Post by TimelessSurf on Aug 17, 2011 20:17:46 GMT -5
If you are going to butt the ends together, I would at least angle the ends so one lays over the other, giving a bit more glue area as well, and then either lay the seams so they rest on a rail or add a small reinforcing block under the seam. I have had butt joints shear and release the wood from the glass on each side (hard knee drop on it) Although, if the seams are spaced out well then the neighboring board might give extra strength...
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Post by Boof HeD on Aug 17, 2011 23:18:14 GMT -5
G'day. I've built a few timber kayaks and have just stopped for lunch as I work on my latest project, a hybrid (s&g hull/stripped deck) ocean racing ski. Have just glued the sheer clamps on to the side panels. The ski is 20ft long therefore requiring shorter lengths of timber to be joined together. Wooden boat builders use scarf joints to join pieces of timber together lengthwise. Scarf joints have a couple of big advantages over the butt joints mention in this thread. Tney have a much larger gluing surface which makes the joint stronger; using the standard 8:1 ratio will produce ajoint that bends fair ie will bend without a lump at the join. I use a table saw for chunkier timber sections and a hand plane for plywood. A hand plane can be used for thicker sectons as well. I'm toying with the idea of building your SUP (if the missus will let me start anoher project Cheers
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Post by apauly1954 on Aug 18, 2011 11:34:11 GMT -5
Hiya again turtlebo, I have just re-read what I posted re: end grain glueing & obviously ommitted that butt jointing is a no-no. As Boof Hed says a scarf joint is the way to go as it creates a greater surface area for the glue joint & makes it possible to clamp it whilst it cures. If you google 'scarf joint-images' there are numerous pics of all types of scarf joints so you know what we're on about & my recommendation would be just a plain scarf joint (nothing fancy) get 'em well & truly glued up with Gorilla Glue (its resin based & waterproof & super strong) then rip 'em to width & thickness. But as I always say 'that's just one mans opinion' Pauly
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Post by turtlebo on Aug 18, 2011 14:41:12 GMT -5
Okay, thank you guys. I looked into scarfing, and I think I've got the idea. I also looked at some jigs. I think I can do that. I think that I will rip my lumber down to about 5/16 and then scarf. Does this sound reasonable or should I glue thicker wood first? I don't have access to a table top planer.
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 16:57:04 GMT -5
Here is how I glued my slats on.. center slat first, then two at a time....Much easier Chads way. I used gorilla glue and seran wrap instead of clamps. I know, but hey, I didn't have to buy any clamps..Its worked great. Attachments:
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 17:00:06 GMT -5
Deck first, wrong, hey its a learning process Attachments:
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 17:01:21 GMT -5
Bottom skin Chad, can i add more than one photo at a time? Attachments:
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 17:02:02 GMT -5
Both skins Attachments:
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 17:02:29 GMT -5
rails Attachments:
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Post by bajagrant on Aug 18, 2011 17:03:23 GMT -5
Rails again. Did deck first. big mistake Had to take strips off to add the rails Attachments:
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