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Post by jensen1031 on Sept 22, 2014 8:49:13 GMT -5
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timbo
Junior Member
Posts: 74
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Post by timbo on Sept 22, 2014 16:32:01 GMT -5
Looking good now Jensen and the Sapele makes a nice contrast. You are cracking on with it that's for sure and I bet you can't wait to start assembling the hull to the frames and spine. As a matter of interest what glue are you using?
Take care and good luck with the rest of the build.
Tim
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Post by jensen1031 on Sept 23, 2014 6:31:57 GMT -5
Hey Timbo, thanks. Im using Original Gorilla Glue. They are now selling a Gorilla Glue for wood that advertise little to no expansion however, it is not waterproof.....so I opted for the original.
First time using it and Im sure that I am probably using too much, hence the expansion drips.
Good thing is that they plane/sand off pretty easy, so Id rather be safe than sorry.
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Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 23, 2014 7:18:35 GMT -5
Looking good Jensen!! Next is the fun bit where she starts to look like a board! I used Gorilla glue and as you say, comes off no problem but it is a bit expensive here. I found it very useful doing the rails as I took them out of the water for bending and got the Gorilla glue straight on wet and all and no problems.
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timbo
Junior Member
Posts: 74
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Post by timbo on Sept 23, 2014 14:11:07 GMT -5
Jensen, just an after thought. The deck is pretty curved both ways and you may have trouble with the sapele, etc if you glue it all up and try to lay in one go. I'm sure you've researched most posts by now and several have glued the deck on strip by strip. Personally I think that is the way to go. Not too much extra work and you won't have any problems attaching to the ribs moreover you can see them as you fit so you will know that you have a good solid contact joint. Julian, among, others did it this way.
I have used the old G glue but I'm very much a Titebond III fan. I know that G glue expands and fills the joint but any gap is essentially foam filled and not anywhere near as strong as a surface to surface contact. Under any undue pressure the joint will part again. That said, G glue is good if the wood is still a little wet (not dripping though) for use fitting the rails for example. Titebond would not work under those circumstances so both have their pros and cons I guess.
Take care and good stripping as they say!
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Post by jensen1031 on Sept 24, 2014 7:53:57 GMT -5
Great advice Timbo. I will definitely be doing the deck one by one. Im already seeing how hard that would be given how Im soaking the hull now to fit the rocker.
Question for anyone reading this would be on how well the spar and ribs need to fit to the hull skin. I have it on the rocker jig now and there are some places where the ribs dont meet the skin (perhaps 1/8 in. gap at most). I m going to sand out some of the rough spots, but Im not sure if I will be able to get everything to match 100%. How much of a big deal is this? Common sense would say that they need to touch as much as possible to form a good bond with the glue. Is it more important that the spine fits better than the ribs?
Any advice would help.
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timbo
Junior Member
Posts: 74
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Post by timbo on Sept 24, 2014 16:40:11 GMT -5
I would make sure you have as good a fit as possible sanding down or adding thin strips as required. Where there is a gap glue a thin piece of wood to the rib and then sand it down to fit or glue a fillet to the side of the rib which is probably easier. Most people have found the spine not to match the height of the ribs in some places and sanded it down to fit as well. Place one of your deck strips on top of the ribs and use this to check for high and low spots and making sure the shape is fair. Mine was pretty good, I had to sand a little from the tops of a few ribs. The spine was deeper than the ribs approximately in the middle so I lined up the top of the ribs level with the top of the spine and planed the excess from the bottom but you are past this stage I guess. Hope this helps. But you must get it right at this stage or you will have problems later on.
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Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 25, 2014 4:28:12 GMT -5
Jensen, as Tim says, dry fit the bottom/hull and eliminate the gaps as best you can with strips - glue them to the rail first (you'll need to do this to rub down and remove the expanding Gorilla glue) and then they should be good to go when you come to glue the bottom. Regards the top of the spine this is where I placed the deck one strip at a time to mak sure there was a good joint. It meant the deck was a little uneven in places but with some (ok, a lot) sanding there is enough wood in a 5-6mm strip to even it out (I also found that when I did the layers of glassing this also eliminates some of this unevenness).....its a pain but I now know for the next one to spend more time making a better cut!!
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Post by jensen1031 on Sept 25, 2014 13:38:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice guys and I agree with the thin strips to fill the gaps. Spent some time last night and overall not as bad as I thought once I took some time to make sure that everything was level again. I also clamped the hull to the jig to ensure a fit there.
Seems as though the nose is in good shape, its more as I go towards the tail end and its fairly minor. Going to try sanding it out first.
Thanks for the advice.....I thought thats what you would both say, just needed the confirmation.
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Post by jensen1031 on Oct 3, 2014 10:19:27 GMT -5
Hey everyone. Been a week or so since I touched base. Just been spending a lot of time making sure that I have good contact with the ribs, spine, and hull. Happy to say that this is all done and she is on the rack this AM with the hull and skeleton all glued together! I am attaching some pics for any newbies like myself that have some of the issues that I came across. By and large everything fit nice, but there were some gaps cause from either sloppy cutting of the ribs, or the hull being glued together slightly uneven. Fortunately there weren’t any large gaps. Most were solved with minor sanding. There were a few areas that I had to cut small shims to create that wood on wood contact. Pics are below to show where they were on the board. I created a little chart and I walked rib to rib to see where there was a gap. I used a heavy piece of paper as a guide for the gaps……if the paper fit under the rib that was a gap that needed to be fixed. I outlined where the shims went and numbered them so I didn’t get mixed up. I also did the final outline of the skeleton for gluing. THIS IS KEY! Gluing took 10 mins and was spot on. Without that outline I think I would still be in the garage cursing. I took the time to glue the shims to the board and let them sit overnight and then attached the ribs the next day. This was just to make sure that everything was right before the big glue job. Last pic is the board on the rack all clamped down tight. REAL TIGHT. Unfortunately I snapped 2 of the clamps being overzealous. Cutting the rails this weekend and will let them soak for a week or so.
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Post by jensen1031 on Oct 3, 2014 10:20:25 GMT -5
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timbo
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Post by timbo on Oct 4, 2014 4:59:22 GMT -5
Really good job Jensen. It pays to be a little 'fussy' and get it right that's for sure. You will reap the benefits later on. As a matter of interest and only if you wish to share of course, what's your background in terms of skills, employment, etc. Your approach is methodical and well thought out so just thought I would enquire.
Take care and good luck with the rails.
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Post by jensen1031 on Oct 8, 2014 19:47:39 GMT -5
Haha. Thanks timbo. Funny you should ask. I'm a project manager for a pharmaceutical company in NJ, USA. I spend most of my day behind an Excel spreadsheet coordinating 50 different people. The anal-retentive-ness makes sense now,eh?
Been traveling for work the past week along with Chowderfest as the beach, but was still able to get quite a bit done. Rails were cut and soaked for about 4 days and I have the first two rails glued up right now. Complete mess with the glue and 20 clamps later they went up very nice and fairly easy. Pics to follow soon.
I was so nervous about cracking the rails that I couldn't make the final bend on the 16th rib. I'm 1.5 inches short on both sides. I'm going t to cut a new rib so that it meets the rails and that will mean a little wider tail, but that's OK.
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Post by jensen1031 on Oct 9, 2014 9:03:33 GMT -5
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Post by jensen1031 on Oct 9, 2014 9:27:20 GMT -5
I went ahead and cut a 3" (2" for the rail + 1" wiggle room) perimeter around the board so that I could clamp the rails easier. First time seeing the board off of the rack and now that it has a rounded shape I am SUPER pumped. Starting to look like a board more than a stack of wood and glue. Second pic is first set of rails on both sides. You can see in the distance how the last rib (#16) is going to have to be re-cut. Im not heartbroken about that since I wasnt happy with the wedge I had to use when i was gluing the skin. Ill take some before and after of that becuase I think any other newbie like myself may have that same concern. I probably could have bent the wood from the hull and the rails more, but was just so nervouse of cracking everything. I have some down time this weekend, so my goal is to haver the rails D-O-N-E. Attachments:
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