Post by juliangibraltar on Sept 19, 2014 13:24:16 GMT -5
Well, I've never had any complaints before!!! Seriously though I am learning from an expert here and it is all about volume (and shape), I've been on smaller boards, (10'6") which have better volume as they are thicker or shaped differently I guess. If you consider archimedes and displacement I suppose that with the board weighing 32kgs and me weighing 110kgs so a total of 142kgs....the volume of approximately 200kgs (with basic multiplication)...so their isn't much buoyancy left!!! At least I think thats a reasonable calculation.
Overall the board works great and especially with lighter friends. She is super impressive and remarkably quick on the water.
Having said that you can see from the photo (full disclosure but a bit fuzzy!) that the board still floats ok with me. As I said, I altered the depth of the board and I think this is what lost me some important Ltrs of volume.
But yes....all the prefabricated boards tend to suggest a 12'-14' board for me!!
I am on it 2-3 times a week and learning all sorts of turns and balance tricks and when possible I can catch the odd small wave. In the photo I am on a river in Spain which opens to the sea with some nice waves so get the best of both worlds!
Thanks for all the info Julian you certainly are enjoying your board and that can only be good after all that hard work. Pleased it goes well I suspect that's all to do with the amount of rocker in the design it certainly sits well in the water with you on board. Just remind me again why you altered the thickness!
Well I have just added the final (hopefully) last 2 thin coats of resin to the deck after rubbing down the initial fill coats. I said hopefully because it's only too easy to sand back to the weave if you are not very careful I know this from experience on my kayak. The danger area is effectively on the 'corners' or where the rails meet the deck - anyway fingers crossed. I have used 9/10ths of the resin and hardener so not much left for any cock ups.
I've also glassed the fin on both sides so will have to fill the weave next. It's nice to make your own but all these little jobs add to the time taken etc. I did manage to laminate the paddle blade at the same time so I shall be able to shape that and fit to the shaft soon.
Take care and keep enjoying the board while the weather lasts. Looks like mine will be next year now ah well plenty of other things to do. I will post again this week with pics from the glassing, fin box fit, etc.
After sanding the board down I put a thin sealer coat on both the deck and hull. Allowed it to dry overnight and then lightly rubbed it down with wet and dry. After taping up the sides and laying out the 6 oz cloth and managing to get the workshop up to 73 degrees I wet out the cloth. I used West Systems 105 resin with 207 special hardener to ensure I got total transparency.
The resin went on really well at that temperature it was nice and thin and easy to move around with a spreader. After about 20 minutes I went over it again to squeeze out any excess resin and stop the cloth floating. I learnt the hard way when building my first kayak that if there is excess resin under the cloth and you don’t squeeze it out the cloth in that area effectively floats and when it sets you get a high spot. This causes problems when sanding later on as you are liable to expose or even sand through the cloth in that area.
Obligatory photo of the fin box being fitted with the fin in place to ensure it went in straight.
I then made a vent plug to match the leash plug and glued a nut in the bottom with some resin to take the vent plug screw. I then fitted it to the board and tested by blowing in some air – all was well.
After all the fitting was done I sanded down the original fill coats and rolled on another 2 thin coats of resin. Sometime in the near future I will give the board another sanding all over and then a coat of 2K car lacquer to give that great final finish the board deserves plus, of course, the UV protection needed.
The lacquer is certainly the way to go in my opinion. It’s hard wearing and flexible and after doing my kayak some 3 years ago it still looks like it was done yesterday. You would never get that kind of service from varnish that’s for sure. By the way the idea of using car lacquer came from an American who makes wood strip kayaks for a living.
The finished board prior to sanding and adding lacquer:
Post by juliangibraltar on Oct 1, 2014 0:40:58 GMT -5
Congratulations Tim on your anniversary and a most beautiful build!! She really did come out as an excellent example of woodworking skills! (Looks great next to the kayak!) I have to say that one of my favourite parts is the Wenge strips, the black pinstripe really does make a beautiful contrast, especially on the nose piece. Really lovely work. OK, so you know my rude question.....how much does she weigh??
Thanks for the photos and insights and now its time to enjoy her on the crystal waters of Severn!!
Thanks both it's not difficult to build stripwood kayaks and boards you just need a bit of patience and a few basic tools but nothing too serious.
Well Julian I'm not too sure I should answer your question but when I married her she was 8 stone 5 lbs (117lbs) and now after 45 years she is 9 stone 3 lbs (129lbs). Not too bad really and still quite a good streamline shape!!
As for the board well that weighs in at 50lbs. As I said earlier I could probably have come in around the 40 to 45 mark if I made it the standard size.
I've started to make another paddle this one will have a hollow shaft ngc704.home.comcast.net/~ngc704/paddles/ . I cut the strips and made the V joint with a router instead of a saw and then glued it with Titebond 3. Tomorrow or sometime soon I shall plane and sand it. I did put 2 wider strips in to make it oblong which is much easier to hold and fits your hand better It's certainly lighter. I also glued a load of off cuts together to make the blade.
The first paddle is just about ready for glassing but I will do them both together.
Will post photos of both soon.
Oh by the way, I think there are too many stripes in the board and it looks a bit 'busy' - ah well, next time eh!!
Well I’ve just about finished the first paddle apart from the resin, glassing and final finish. I used a former to bend the shaft (10 degrees) and then glued the six strips of cedar with epoxy. Then I shaped it oval using a plane and various grades of sand paper. The blade was laminated from strips.
Decided to make a hollow shaft this time. It was much easier than I thought and went together well. You can see the birds mouth joints if you look carefully. You can also see that 2 strips are wider than the others which makes the shaft oval.