Post by longboardbob on Jan 13, 2013 2:48:15 GMT -5
G'day Just joined the forum I live in Australia you probably guessed that from the G'day,I have purchased the 11"SUP plans and tried to have them printed full size to start the project and the print came out approx 150% I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem as I don't want an 16ft SUP 45" wide ;D and don't fancy printing out all separate pages and pasting together. I do suspect that the girl at the printers stuffed up.By the way I have done Some surfing in coca beach way back in 97 when I bought a 9' takayama, Joel Tudor signature model and I still own that board today and it has pride of place in my office at home , Looking forward to starting my Sup, Cheers, Bob
Hi, just thought I'd introduce myself,the latest newbie. I'm Rob from Bognor Regis on the south coast of the UK. I'm a carpenter who read an article in a magazine about hollow wooden boards this week and have been buzzing about getting started since then. Ive ordered and received my paperback copy of building a hollow wooden SUP, so now i just need to find out how to download the plan so I can get started. if someone could advise me what i do next I'd really appreciate it
G'day from sunny Queensland ( google Redcliffe,Queensland, Australia )I am a new builder and green. Anyone know of what wood is best suited that I can get my hands on ? Also wondering should I go ply skin top and bottom or strips (as I see many like this). Also looking to see if anyone has any tips to pass on 'd'oh wish I had done XYZ and so on.
Hey Mango, try a company called Paulownia Timber Sales at Burleigh Heads they look like they will have all you need. Go for strips rather than ply, Paulownia is super light so will help with keeping the weight down and make a small steam box to help bend your rails. Look forward to seeing your progress.
Post by juliangibraltar on Jan 4, 2014 12:24:25 GMT -5
Hi Mango, Advice from a newbie....who is taking very long to get the bottom stuck on the frame....try and cut your spine and ribs as accurately as possible, cut just outside the line and then sand to the mark seems to be the favourite (and not what I did!). I've spent most of the last month trying to make everything good.
Secondly I've been trying to rip my planks myself and without a thicknesser/planer the planks are not all the exact same depth...get a pro to do it or take your time and build a cutting jig or something.
Thirdly, it does all go quicker if you try to get all your materials and tools at the beginning.
And finally get as many clamps as you can, shed loads, the more the merrier....you will need them!!!
Have fun and although I'm still struggling along it is the most fun project I've got into and everyone on the forum has lots of answers!
Hello all, my name is Bobby and I hail from Fresno Ca and Rosarito Beach Mexico. I just bought the book /patterns to build the Classic Longboard. I'm going to follow Chad's advice and enlarge it to 110% to account for my size (230lbs) and being a newbie to learning to surf. I've tried surfing in the past, but I had little success. I think it was largely due to the board being too small for me. Anyway, I will take on this project working slowly and carefully and read everyone elses posts repeatedly for tips and suggestions. Wish me luck!
Hi I'm a newbie from TX. Just ordered the plans for the 11ft SUP. I'm super excited to get started but I've got to purchase a couple of tools first. I know I will have plenty of questions. This will be my first one and I'm a little intimidated but more excited than anything. As far as the hand plane goes is there one that you guys recommend overall like a Stanley #4? I'm clueless on what hand plane I need to buy. Was reading a bunch online and a lot seem to think the #4 is their workhorse. Thanks guys and I look forward to the journey.
Welcome to the board!!! There's a lot of experience here and plenty of help to be had. Post pictures. I used a Ridgid cordless power plane that I picked up off eBay for $39, it worked perfectly, surprisingly powerful.
Post by juliangibraltar on Jul 9, 2014 7:53:55 GMT -5
Hi Tommy, I used a Nº 4 Stanley or equivalent which as you say is a real work horse, especially to remove the extra wood at the nose and tail after the rails go on, otherwise its good for most smoothing and overall shaping jobs. I also have a smaller one-handed plane which is great for smoothing thin edges and more delicate areas.
I also used my standard jigsaw for the ribs and stringer, and a tenon saw for some other small bits (am looking for a Japanese pull saw). In terms of sanders I have a standard rectangular electric (random) sander from Bosch, a belt sander which I actually didnt use very much and an electric planer which is frighteningly powerful and will remove wood before you know it!......so I only used this for removing some excess wood from the nose but I think guys use it to start the shaping of the rails.
Finally I also had a table saw for ripping the strips and cutting the triangles for the rails....unfortunately mine broke just before the end so asked my lumber guy for a couple of free cuts! Having said that I would have got an 80 tooth saw blade for this if/when I get another one to get a much cleaner cut (I was using only 45 tooth and edges where coming out pretty rough).
Finally clamps, especially long ones, lots of them.....and dont forget "Blairs Blocks" for gluing down the rail triangles, see my posts for details, bloody wonderful idea!.
Tha me for the replies guys. I was beginning to wonder if anybody was still here. Almost have all the tools I will need and then I will start on the jig and ribs/spine. Really looking forward to it. Just curious on the fin what you guys ended up doing there and whether you found a template to make the fin and where exactly to place it. This board will used at the lake for exercise and enjoyment. If this goes well I will end up making one for my son and wife too.